It is quite evident that the biggest dampener of tourism in this country this season is not going to be the Maoists and their antics, nor the political gymnastics and imminent elections, nor the attention grabbing techniques in the Madesh, but plain old rain... rain, rain and more rain. Read the five day forecast from the BBC here
It has been bad weather for seven days straight, and it has been raining off and on all these days. The temperatures have gone down and is now at about 20 C highest. Nice temperatures, but damp days, and nights. One of our clients on safari in Chitwan, was rained in for 36 hours and in the first break she had, she was blessed with a sight of three leopards... extremely lucky...
Anyways, the advisory therefore will be, bring an umbrella, or if you are trekking, a rain Poncho, NOT a super duper goretex jacket, but a plain old rain Poncho... much better as it also goes over your rucksack and lets you stay dry and keep walking. Careful though, in heavy rain, the version you can buy in Nepal do not have waterproof zips, therefore though they only cost about 5-6 dollars and that is extremely tempting, if staying absolutely dry is a priority, you might want to invest in a good poncho. Check to see if your rucksack also fits though.
FYI, read more about gear here
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
The US Travel Advisory
The US is back at hitting hard at Nepal again, a new travel advisory came out yesterday, advising as follows: "The Department of State remains concerned about the security situation in Nepal and urges American citizens contemplating a visit to Nepal to obtain updated security information before they travel and to be prepared to change their plans at short notice"....read more about the US travel advisory here
Well, I think what they write is completely justified. But remember to read between the lines, and the learnings from this advisory would be:
1. Do not walk alone inside a jungle, specially if you are a woman (the two incidents in the forest)
2. Solo trekking is not always safe (not only for personal safety reasons, but also you never have backup in case you have a trekking injury, or high altitude sickness)
3. Tourists are not necessarily the targets.. American NGO's are considered to have more money, hence excellent for extortions.
4. Some pilferage in hotels rooms in Kathmandu is possible. Kathmandu is a big city and normal levels of city crime exists. Be careful where you keep your valuables.
So you see, the travel advisory does not necessarily say that you cannot travel into Nepal, just you need to be cautious, be informed, and take usual precautions like when you travel anywhere in the world.
And the one part that I like a lot in the advisory, be ready to change plans quickly... this is absolutely true. In a country with a situation like in Nepal, that is probably the best advice people can come with... be flexible, ready for change....
Remember.... plans seldom survive reality, change can be inspirational, embrace it.... this cannot be more true in Nepal.
Well, I think what they write is completely justified. But remember to read between the lines, and the learnings from this advisory would be:
1. Do not walk alone inside a jungle, specially if you are a woman (the two incidents in the forest)
2. Solo trekking is not always safe (not only for personal safety reasons, but also you never have backup in case you have a trekking injury, or high altitude sickness)
3. Tourists are not necessarily the targets.. American NGO's are considered to have more money, hence excellent for extortions.
4. Some pilferage in hotels rooms in Kathmandu is possible. Kathmandu is a big city and normal levels of city crime exists. Be careful where you keep your valuables.
So you see, the travel advisory does not necessarily say that you cannot travel into Nepal, just you need to be cautious, be informed, and take usual precautions like when you travel anywhere in the world.
And the one part that I like a lot in the advisory, be ready to change plans quickly... this is absolutely true. In a country with a situation like in Nepal, that is probably the best advice people can come with... be flexible, ready for change....
Remember.... plans seldom survive reality, change can be inspirational, embrace it.... this cannot be more true in Nepal.
Sunday, September 23, 2007
random thoughts ... am a bit hurt!
Do not get me wrong, I do appreciate the concern that different countries have about the situation in Nepal, but as a Nepali, my pride hurt a bit when I read that the Americans are warning our mao brothers (..if they derail the election process). Doesn't the US have enough problems in its hands out of meddling in others affairs?
like I mentioned before, I do understand concern, but threats/warnings?
On another thing, was reading at www.nepalnews.com that a quick poll (voice of the people)showed that the people are not too happy about the Maoist pull out - careful brothers, if you do not have the people on your side, you might not have much left. Remember it is not the gun anymore that rules, now that you are overground.
like I mentioned before, I do understand concern, but threats/warnings?
On another thing, was reading at www.nepalnews.com that a quick poll (voice of the people)showed that the people are not too happy about the Maoist pull out - careful brothers, if you do not have the people on your side, you might not have much left. Remember it is not the gun anymore that rules, now that you are overground.
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Travel Advisory - 21 Sep 07
OK, I need to qualify this right away...so that I do not give anyone any wrong impression...
I do not have any secret service or intelligence agencies supplying me with information to fuel this advisory... this advisory is purely based on my understanding of our people and politics, and my experience over the years about how this affects tourism.
Situation: We hear that the Maoists will not reenter the jungle, and I completely believe them. You cannot stay in the jungle for 15 odd years, face all the hardships, come back into the open for over a year, and then go back again... that is too complicated. You got to remember that the hardliners are also getting real old, maybe old enough not to go back into the Jungle. As one of my friends pointed out, I look to be singling out the Maoists...there are other elements too in Nepal in this political mess who are equally to blame...I address the issue with the Maoists as their actions are noticed worldwide and this affects tourism
So, without too much fuss on the situation, here is the advisory
Kathmandu: Expect delays all round. The consumers are really unhappy with the situation with shortages in electricity, fuel and water, and the proverbial Nepali patience is wearing thin right now. There have already been some strikes from consumer groups, some random, some planned and this will affect movement to a certain degree. It does not look like it will resolve soon either.
Action to take: Keep your stay in Kathmandu short. Try to fly out to other locations rather than use land transport. Its going to be more reliable. For this, book well in advance. Its season right now. If you plan on staying in Kathmandu, pad your days, so that you can take time. You do want to see Kathmandu though if you are coming to Nepal. It is a cultural melting pot, polluted, crowded, but full of culture
Safety: Not much danger to travellers. Do not wait to take photographs if you see a situation happening. Specially Lainchaur, close to Thamel is a political keg, and brickbatting with Police is common here specially since there are a few colleges here. Do not hang around when you see this, just move away. You have more chances of getting mugged if you hang around too late at night in Thamel (there are too many druggies around nowadays) than getting hurt in other incidents.
Pokhara and Annapurna Region. Definitely better. Any political activity in Kathmandu gets immediately reflected in Pokhara. But since the tourism district out there is removed fro town at lakeside, you hardly notice anything. If anything, and there is a strike or something, you have a short walk to the Bus Station or a longish walk to the airport. Worst case scenario, you might have to walk it to Phedi or Nayapul, if you are planning Poon Hill treks, if there is a transportation strike or the fuel runs out.
Safety: No danger at all. Avoid stupidity as required in any city...but please drink one for me at the Busy Bee.
Everest Region: (I was about to write Totally but maybe that is too much to write) Cool. No crazy political activity here, except that the Maoists are working on setting rates and systems for porters (actually a pretty good task, except they tend to be a bit rough around the edges). No one will trouble you.
Safety. No problems
Langtang Region: Cool. Expect problems going to Dhunche, if you are planning a trip from here. The fuel shortage is hitting hard, and there might be delays on the road. Nothing too bad though. Also this area is going to be your alternative if everything else does not work during your trip to Nepal. Like no flights to Lukla, or transport problems to Pokhara.... then just take a taxi to Sundarijal, about 45 minutes from Thamel on a good less traffic day, and start trekking from the edge of the valley. Options are 7 days Gosainkunda, 6 days Helambu, 14 - 21 days Gosainkunda and Langtang or add Tamang Heritage Trek. So you will not miss out. Langtang Helambu are saviors.
Chitwan National Park: Look before you leap. The problems with the Terai unrests have not affected Chitwan so far, nor to road that leads to it, but you never know if it will extend here. So be informed before you go to Chitwan. If anything, even though it is not a responsible move, flying will ensure safety for sure. You are collected at Bharatpur by resort staff and whisked off to the Jungle or Sauraha, and you can return the same way. My choice is to go by land and fly back. But be informed before you do this.
Safety. Its safe, no doubts.
The Terai: Not recommended. If you are planning on going to Lumbini, or to Bharatpur or even Bardiya, expect severe delays and restrictions. There is a violent (OK, only sometimes it is voilent) movement going on there, and though you will be safe (all sides agree that tourists are not the target), you will not enjoy your trip.
So overall, in Nepal now, stick to the mountains and like I always say, get away from the cities, the further you are from a city, the better the situation is.
OK, now i am exhausted... so if there is anything specific you want to know, write me.
oh btw, please also keep reading www.nepalnews.com
I do not have any secret service or intelligence agencies supplying me with information to fuel this advisory... this advisory is purely based on my understanding of our people and politics, and my experience over the years about how this affects tourism.
Situation: We hear that the Maoists will not reenter the jungle, and I completely believe them. You cannot stay in the jungle for 15 odd years, face all the hardships, come back into the open for over a year, and then go back again... that is too complicated. You got to remember that the hardliners are also getting real old, maybe old enough not to go back into the Jungle. As one of my friends pointed out, I look to be singling out the Maoists...there are other elements too in Nepal in this political mess who are equally to blame...I address the issue with the Maoists as their actions are noticed worldwide and this affects tourism
So, without too much fuss on the situation, here is the advisory
Kathmandu: Expect delays all round. The consumers are really unhappy with the situation with shortages in electricity, fuel and water, and the proverbial Nepali patience is wearing thin right now. There have already been some strikes from consumer groups, some random, some planned and this will affect movement to a certain degree. It does not look like it will resolve soon either.
Action to take: Keep your stay in Kathmandu short. Try to fly out to other locations rather than use land transport. Its going to be more reliable. For this, book well in advance. Its season right now. If you plan on staying in Kathmandu, pad your days, so that you can take time. You do want to see Kathmandu though if you are coming to Nepal. It is a cultural melting pot, polluted, crowded, but full of culture
Safety: Not much danger to travellers. Do not wait to take photographs if you see a situation happening. Specially Lainchaur, close to Thamel is a political keg, and brickbatting with Police is common here specially since there are a few colleges here. Do not hang around when you see this, just move away. You have more chances of getting mugged if you hang around too late at night in Thamel (there are too many druggies around nowadays) than getting hurt in other incidents.
Pokhara and Annapurna Region. Definitely better. Any political activity in Kathmandu gets immediately reflected in Pokhara. But since the tourism district out there is removed fro town at lakeside, you hardly notice anything. If anything, and there is a strike or something, you have a short walk to the Bus Station or a longish walk to the airport. Worst case scenario, you might have to walk it to Phedi or Nayapul, if you are planning Poon Hill treks, if there is a transportation strike or the fuel runs out.
Safety: No danger at all. Avoid stupidity as required in any city...but please drink one for me at the Busy Bee.
Everest Region: (I was about to write Totally but maybe that is too much to write) Cool. No crazy political activity here, except that the Maoists are working on setting rates and systems for porters (actually a pretty good task, except they tend to be a bit rough around the edges). No one will trouble you.
Safety. No problems
Langtang Region: Cool. Expect problems going to Dhunche, if you are planning a trip from here. The fuel shortage is hitting hard, and there might be delays on the road. Nothing too bad though. Also this area is going to be your alternative if everything else does not work during your trip to Nepal. Like no flights to Lukla, or transport problems to Pokhara.... then just take a taxi to Sundarijal, about 45 minutes from Thamel on a good less traffic day, and start trekking from the edge of the valley. Options are 7 days Gosainkunda, 6 days Helambu, 14 - 21 days Gosainkunda and Langtang or add Tamang Heritage Trek. So you will not miss out. Langtang Helambu are saviors.
Chitwan National Park: Look before you leap. The problems with the Terai unrests have not affected Chitwan so far, nor to road that leads to it, but you never know if it will extend here. So be informed before you go to Chitwan. If anything, even though it is not a responsible move, flying will ensure safety for sure. You are collected at Bharatpur by resort staff and whisked off to the Jungle or Sauraha, and you can return the same way. My choice is to go by land and fly back. But be informed before you do this.
Safety. Its safe, no doubts.
The Terai: Not recommended. If you are planning on going to Lumbini, or to Bharatpur or even Bardiya, expect severe delays and restrictions. There is a violent (OK, only sometimes it is voilent) movement going on there, and though you will be safe (all sides agree that tourists are not the target), you will not enjoy your trip.
So overall, in Nepal now, stick to the mountains and like I always say, get away from the cities, the further you are from a city, the better the situation is.
OK, now i am exhausted... so if there is anything specific you want to know, write me.
oh btw, please also keep reading www.nepalnews.com
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
...and more political gymnastics
I think we, the Nepalese people, are like sheep, totally and completely lacking any sense of our own, and happy to turn wherever our 'wise' politicians take us.
Yesterday, the maoists dropped out of the goverment, in a political wrangling bid to get seats in parliament out of elections, and they have the support of masses of people. In this day and age, can you believe that! They have announced a 'peaceful' agitation program to derail the election process.
For everyone's knowledge, this is their agitation program schedule that they announced yesterday (to be absolutely fair to readers, by the time you read this, it will probably change...knowing the Nepali penchance for doing this)
19-21 Sep - door to door awareness programme (read it as 'donation collection' and/or request to house agitators)
22 Sep: Mass meetings and demonstrations all over country (read stopping traffic and causing commuting crisis - this has a bigger nuisance factor than just shouting on a microphone)
30 Sep: Surrounding of Election offices to restrict nominations
29 Sep - 3 Oct: Exposing persons indicted in Rayamajhi Commission (on the People's Uprising last year) and "corrupt persons" (read after all this disturbances in the past weeks, trying to get the sympathy of the masses again, but touching topics that touch people, corruption and the people's uprising.
4-6 Oct: Nation Wide General Strike. (read clean air in Kathmandu.....)
For tourism, this could not come at a worse time, but somehow this is the fate of a tourism professional in Nepal. Not only did we have the tourism season of Nepal coinciding with our biggest festivals, Dasain and Tihar (which meant that we could not really celebrate the festivals as we wanted), since about 7 years, every year, during the season, some sort of agitation is announced by someone... such is the stupidity of the politicians... I guess for them it is tactical, but I hope they also realise that they are alienating a vast majority of people, who directly or indirectly benefit from tourism.
In end effect, the tourism itself will be safe. The only thing is what I like to call the 'hassle factor' (strikes, check points etc..) which will delay tourism.
But remember, most of Nepal's tourism is in the villages, and the further you go from Kathmandu and bigger towns, the less you will be affected by all this political wrangling.
Yesterday, the maoists dropped out of the goverment, in a political wrangling bid to get seats in parliament out of elections, and they have the support of masses of people. In this day and age, can you believe that! They have announced a 'peaceful' agitation program to derail the election process.
For everyone's knowledge, this is their agitation program schedule that they announced yesterday (to be absolutely fair to readers, by the time you read this, it will probably change...knowing the Nepali penchance for doing this)
19-21 Sep - door to door awareness programme (read it as 'donation collection' and/or request to house agitators)
22 Sep: Mass meetings and demonstrations all over country (read stopping traffic and causing commuting crisis - this has a bigger nuisance factor than just shouting on a microphone)
30 Sep: Surrounding of Election offices to restrict nominations
29 Sep - 3 Oct: Exposing persons indicted in Rayamajhi Commission (on the People's Uprising last year) and "corrupt persons" (read after all this disturbances in the past weeks, trying to get the sympathy of the masses again, but touching topics that touch people, corruption and the people's uprising.
4-6 Oct: Nation Wide General Strike. (read clean air in Kathmandu.....)
For tourism, this could not come at a worse time, but somehow this is the fate of a tourism professional in Nepal. Not only did we have the tourism season of Nepal coinciding with our biggest festivals, Dasain and Tihar (which meant that we could not really celebrate the festivals as we wanted), since about 7 years, every year, during the season, some sort of agitation is announced by someone... such is the stupidity of the politicians... I guess for them it is tactical, but I hope they also realise that they are alienating a vast majority of people, who directly or indirectly benefit from tourism.
In end effect, the tourism itself will be safe. The only thing is what I like to call the 'hassle factor' (strikes, check points etc..) which will delay tourism.
But remember, most of Nepal's tourism is in the villages, and the further you go from Kathmandu and bigger towns, the less you will be affected by all this political wrangling.
Friday, September 07, 2007
Bombs in Nepal! an update for travellers
OK, time for an UPDATE on the situation...!!!
I am in Nepal now, arrived a day after the bomb blasts... !! No surprise that all Nepalese are deeply shocked! This is the first time in history something like this has happened, where a bomb has actually targetted innocent civilians...
Seems like everyone is learning from examples of the maoists, that there is only one way to make yourself heard in Nepal, start an armed conflict, and maybe examples of 'making a statement' techniques around the world is giving them ideas... but I never thought my own people were capable of something like this!
To take this news and analyse in more practical terms... it is business as usual for the tourism and trekking business... there is concern, but this is not targetting travellers... as all parties realise that there is no benefit in raising foreign interests by targetting foreigners... That would be utter stupidity...!!
Good news is that the industry is rising from the depths now... and things are looking up! Nepal Tourism Board is already talking about double digit growths in arrivals, 4 times higher than annual growths worldwide.
Good news for sustainable travel too... a workshop just concluded, starting a process of skill enhancement in sustainable travel to 30 odd private sector organistions... hopefully bringing out real sustainable travel alternatives in the near future...
New airlines are coming in too, making connections to Europe and the regional hub of Singapore better, opening newer opportunities in Australia and Europe...
Hopefully, we do not experiment with too many stupid stunts (which we are entirely capable of), and keep the image intact....
I am in Nepal now, arrived a day after the bomb blasts... !! No surprise that all Nepalese are deeply shocked! This is the first time in history something like this has happened, where a bomb has actually targetted innocent civilians...
Seems like everyone is learning from examples of the maoists, that there is only one way to make yourself heard in Nepal, start an armed conflict, and maybe examples of 'making a statement' techniques around the world is giving them ideas... but I never thought my own people were capable of something like this!
To take this news and analyse in more practical terms... it is business as usual for the tourism and trekking business... there is concern, but this is not targetting travellers... as all parties realise that there is no benefit in raising foreign interests by targetting foreigners... That would be utter stupidity...!!
Good news is that the industry is rising from the depths now... and things are looking up! Nepal Tourism Board is already talking about double digit growths in arrivals, 4 times higher than annual growths worldwide.
Good news for sustainable travel too... a workshop just concluded, starting a process of skill enhancement in sustainable travel to 30 odd private sector organistions... hopefully bringing out real sustainable travel alternatives in the near future...
New airlines are coming in too, making connections to Europe and the regional hub of Singapore better, opening newer opportunities in Australia and Europe...
Hopefully, we do not experiment with too many stupid stunts (which we are entirely capable of), and keep the image intact....
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